so, we are back, with our calves quite sore and our eyes bulging from all the incredible sights, and have finished the milford. Yes, it was just as beautiful as everyone said it would be. Probably more beautiful than usual, because of all the snow. Although it is spring here, we awoke on the morning we were starting out to big snow balls plopping on the roof of our tent. We were very cold. The forecast had called for four days of rain and snow in the mountains - yay. But, the sky was clearing as we packed our packs, and there was a light dusting of snow as we took the boat across Lake Te Anau to the start of the tramp. It was beautiful - the mountains surrounding the lake were all powdered and white, appearing on all sides out of the mist that had been hiding them from us during the rain. We were cold, had gotten the worst nights sleep in our lives, but as excited as kids in a candy shop as the boat chugged along. We hopped off and got right to it - the sun came out, our feet finally started to thaw, and we marvelled at the mountains in the distance.
Now, seeing as this was a multi-day adventure, and lots of things happened each day, I won't bore you with a play-by-play of the entire track, although I would love to (but my fingers might get sore). So, a succinct night by night follows.
Night 1. Campsite: Clinton Hut
Weather: snow in the am, then clear and sunny, cloudy again at night
Events: Huts are interesting - there are bunk rooms and a seperate kitchen/hang-out area with a stove. They are simple, but a nice barrier from the frigid weather. Snow in November - I guess I am used to that, although I thought it was supposed to be spring here... anyways, there is a hut ranger at each hut, and this one was an old man named Ross, and he took us on a nature walk before dinner. We had soup, which was hot, unlike the outside temperature (the ongoing theme of this tramp, by the way, is Dana has poor temperature regulation. You thought I was a mammal, but Tatty has decided that I am, in fact, a reptile). There was a very longwinded hut talk at 8 pm that night, and we were so tired, and Ross kept going on about blue ducks and the different bands they use to identify them, and all I wanted was to go to bed, but we also found out Obama won. Yay! We felt very proud to have participated in our very first presidential election. Then we went to bed because we were exhausted.
Concerns/Response: The thing about huts is that, unlike trail life we are used to, you are kind of on someone else's schedule. yuck. The good news is, Tatty's new boots are keeping her blister-free so far.
Day 2. Campsite: Mintaro Hut
Weather: Sunny but cool
Events: Today was a slow climb in elevation, through the river valley, saw some blue ducks but didn't remember anything about how to tell what pair was what or from where or whatever else you can apparantly tell from their bands - which you can't even see when they're flying, it turns out. However, we saw lots of beautiful waterfalls careening down steep cliffs, and it even snowed a little near the end of the day. The day finished with a climb up through some jungle-like forest, with tons of old man's beard moss that was covered in snow. It was beautiful and enchanting, and there was a stillness and quiet that resided throughout the woods. Even though there were almost 40 people staying in the hut, everyone spreads out during the day so you don't really see them all. In the hut that night we made a fire in the woodstove and drank tea to warm up, because it was even colder here with all the snow. We also made friends with some girls from Poland and Slovakia who were working in Australia as ski instructors this winter. We decided that we should get certified to do that, or whitewater rafting, and keep traveling the world.
Concerns/Response: They are predicting snow tonight and bad weather tomorrow for the pass crossing- bummer.
Day 3. Campsite: Dumpling Hut
Weather: Gorgeous, sunny, clear skies, cold winds
Events: The big day! We woke up to clear skies and sun- horay! We crossed the Saddle after a two-hour climb up to McKinnon Pass, where you can see for miles, down into the river valley on each side, and mountains in all directions in the distance - absolutely beautiful. It's hard to explain in words, and even the pictures won't do it justice, but it was truly magnificent. Tatty now understands the glory of the mountains. Then we clambered down, and had to use an emergency track because the regular route was closed because of avalanche danger. There were incredible waterfalls with the most ridiculous-colored water, and we lunched next to one. Things here are too beautiful to be real. If you ever get the chance, come to New Zealand just to see the color of the water; I can't get over it. We also hiked to the largest waterfall in New Zealand- Sutherland Falls. It's so high it didn't even fit in the camera lens. We arrived at the hut tired and ready for dinner and bed, which was exactly what we did.
Concerns/Response: I want to relive all of today a million times, but that's not possible. damn.
Day 3. Campsite: Queenstown
Weather: Sunny and gorgeous, per usual
Events: Final day on the track. It was a beautiful walk along the valley, by the river mostly, with lots of waterfalls in the distance and tumbling down side streams. We crossed a big swing bridge and saw eels (ah!) and trout swimming in the clear water. We caught a boat to Milford Sound, and the clouds came in just as we were boarding. We had the best weather for our tramp, especially after all the bad predictions. Then we drove back to Queenstown and showered and got warm (finally) and went out for a dinner to celebrate our first tramp and Obama's victory.
Concerns/Response: None. An absolute success all around =)

So - now we're in Queenstown, job-hunting for a stint before our Thanksgiving fiesta, which is going to be stellar. Tatty is putting her maintainance skills to work as a cleaner in exchange for a room at a hostel, and I have to go meet her now. Start checking your mailboxes for postcards!
so much love.
xoxoxox
-d

oh, ps - we'll post tramping pics as soon as we recharge the camera battery, so stay tuned!